Persimmon Passion PDF Print E-mail
Written by Tara Leonard   
Confess to Laura Everett that you have never eaten a persimmon and a look of disbelief flashes across her tan, smiling face. Everett believes that there are only two kinds of people in the world – those who love persimmons and those who have never eaten a truly ripe piece of this colorful fall fruit. I’ve been warned that you’ll never forget your first bite of an unripe Hachiya persimmon, the puckering astringency, the bone-dry mouth. But as the owners of Everett Family Farm in Soquel, Laura and her husband Richard are just the folks you want handing you your first plump sample, still warm from the tree, its distinct acorn shape encased in a glossy, orange-red skin.
The persimmon trees in the Everett orchard are 50 to 60 years old, a living legacy of the property’s previous owners. For more than a century, generations of the Leporini family tended cherries, plums, apples and persimmons here, which they sold at their roadside stand each weekend.
Laura, who grew up in a farming family in the Napa Valley, feels passionate about carrying on that tradition, preserving open land and small, family farms. “We bought the farm in 2001,” she explains. “We wanted to teach our kids the importance of how things grow and how to nurture the land. Everything here is grown organically using sustainable agriculture. Persimmons were new to us, but we took what we knew and went from there, learning from our customers as we go.”
Today, the Everetts offer persimmons and other seasonal produce to a growing number of loyal customers at their roadside farm stand. They also wholesale persimmons to a number of local markets and restaurants, as well as to distributors throughout the bay area.
Persimmons have a long and celebrated history. They were introduced to Japan centuries ago and have become the national fruit, a traditional dish of the Japanese New Year.  Persimmons came to California in the early 1900s with immigrants from China, Japan, and the Philippines. A sub-tropical plant, it grows well here and in the Southeastern United States.
There are hundreds of varieties of persimmons, but two types are commonly available in the U.S., the Hachiya and the Fuyu. Both can be seen dotting Santa Cruz neighborhoods, where their abundant production leads some to call them “the zucchini of fruit trees.” Owners profess a love/hate relationship with their persimmon trees, struggling to keep up with the autumn bounty. For the rest of us, growers such as the Everetts step in to provide a persimmon fix.
The squat Fuyu is firm like an apple and is eaten while crisp. Fans dice it into salads and salsas or slice it and top with lime juice and salt.
 The Hachiya is recognizable by its slightly elongated, acorn shape. Soft and squishy when ripe, it has a sweet, jelly-like interior. The smooth, slippery pulp tastes like rich, ripe apricot. Cooks use the versatile fruit in bread, cookies and cakes as well as the classic holiday treat, persimmon pudding. An excellent source of vitamin C, Hachiyas make a great breakfast whirled in a blender with juice or crowning a bowl of vanilla yogurt.
James Smith, chef and co-owner of Sestri Restaurant and Bar is a vocal fan of tree-ripened Everett Family Farm Hachiyas. “The fact that they are grown locally is absolutely critical,” he says. “Once persimmons reach a peak of ripeness, they don’t ship well.”
“They’re so beautiful and such a wonderful symbol of fall,” he continues. “I know it’s sad to say goodbye to summer, but persimmons are a great step to new seasonal dishes. They tend to go well with meats or poultry with a strong flavor, such as roast goose or turkey.” Pressed for details, Smith reels off a list of mouth-watering autumn specials including hearty winter squash and persimmon soup, warm duck salad with chanterelle mushrooms and persimmon coulis, and persimmon pudding cake with brandy crème anglaise.
“Slice up some Fuyus with arugula and walnuts,” Smith continues, “and you’ve got a picture of fall on your plate.”
            Indeed, the Everetts’ persimmon trees are so stunning just now that a number of artists have asked to paint the orchard. If you’d like to capture the essence of fall, on the canvas or the tongue, stop by the farm stand at 2111 Old San Jose Road. The Everetts begin picking persimmons this week and will continue until Christmas.
How to Shop
Look for Hachiya that are plump with glossy, smooth skin. If you don’t want to eat them immediately, choose firm fruits and allow them to ripen at room temperature over the next 10 days to 2 weeks. You’ll know they’re ripe when the fruit is completely soft with flesh that’s translucent. Once ripe, persimmons don’t have a long shelf life. Eat them right away or refrigerate for no more than two days. Smith suggests that you remove the flesh and freeze it in small amounts for later use.
Traditional Persimmon Pudding
1 cup persimmon pulp
2 tbsp butter, melted
½ tsp salt
1 cup sugar
1 egg, beaten
1 cup sifted flour
¼ tsp cinnamon
1 tsp baking soda
½ cup milk
Wash persimmons and puree in a blender or food processor. Measure pulp and add the rest of the ingredient in order given. Pour mixture into a well greased steamed pudding mold. Set aside in a steamer, cover and simmer for 2 hours. Serve with whipped cream. Add brandy and sugar with cream if desired. Serves 6 to 8. (From Everett Family Farm)
The article originally appeared in The Santa Cruz Sentinel.

 

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