Get Back to Your Roots for Heatlhy Winter Eating

Written by Tara Leonard

Food

The parsnip, children, I repeat
Is simply an anemic beet.
Some people call the parsnip edible;
Myself, I find this claim incredible. -- Ogden Nash

Raise your right hand if you know how to cook a parsnip. You are excused from reading this column. If you agree with Ogden Nash, you might want to stick around, especially if you peruse the piles of earth-encrusted root vegetables at the local farmers’ markets and wonder what the heck to do with a turnip. While most of us are familiar with common root vegetables such as potatoes, carrots and beets, I can’t recall a favorite family recipe that includes rutabaga or kohlrabi. If only it were July, the market stalls piled high with crisp green beans, sun-ripened tomatoes, and other familiar summer fare. But there’s no need to resort to frozen peas just yet! According to local food experts, delicious new flavors await beneath those gnarled and knotty exteriors. All it takes is a sense of adventure and a sturdy vegetable peeler.

Long considered peasant fare, root vegetables are enjoying renewed popularity encouraged in part by health-conscious shoppers who know that they are excellent sources of fiber, minerals and vitamins.

“If we would eat more seasonally, we would all be healthier,” says local chef and nutrition coach David Wells, who tailors recipes to help individuals meet their nutrition goals. “Root vegetables are a perfect source of energy for the winter months. Some people avoid them because they’re high in carbohydrates, but they’re complex carbohydrates, with high water content and a good amount of fiber. They’ll give you long-lasting energy without dropping you off a cliff.”

Where to begin? Turnips can vary greatly in size, shape and color, so experiment to find the variety you like best. Small white turnips can be very sweet, while purple varieties have a stronger flavor. You can treat them like potatoes, first peeling, then roasting, steaming, boiling or mashing.  Rutabagas are similar to turnips with yellow-orange flesh similar to a sweet potato. They’re delicious with nutmeg, cinnamon or allspice. Parsnips have the same tapered shape as carrots, but range in color from white to pale yellow. Starchy like a potato, they have a sweet, nutty flavor. Try them with nutmeg, parsley or dill. You might also want to try kohlrabi, which tastes like a cross between a mild turnip and cauliflower, or celery root, which many cooks puree into soups and sauces to provide a creamy texture without the added calories of cream.

When shopping for root vegetables, look for firmness and nice color, which are an indication of freshness according to Troy Papegaay, Produce Manager at Aptos Natural Foods. Avoid produce with cracks, indentations and spots. Troy currently has organic celery root, beets, rutabaga, turnips and parsnips, most of which are local.

Any of these are delicious roasted or simmered gently in hearty soups and stews. But not so fast. While most people roast their root vegetables, many are using the wrong technique according to Benjamin Sims of Ristoranti Avanti. “Root vegetables are full of sugars,” says Sims. “To capitalize on that, you want a nice roasting to caramelize and bring out the flavors. But you don’t want to put cold root vegetables directly into the oven.”

Sims suggests cutting root vegetables first to maximize the surface area. Then, before you put them in a roasting pan, get a sauté pan really hot. Toss your cut vegetables with olive oil, salt, pepper and herbs to cover. Sear for a minute of two, tossing once or twice. Then put the in the oven to roast at high heat for 15 or 20 minutes.

“I never add honey or other toppings,” Sims continues. “Root vegetables don’t need the extra sugar. Try thyme, a bay leaf or some whole garlic cloves.”

Sims also likes to make warm root vegetable salad. “Turnips are slightly bitter,” he says, “while parsnips are sweeter. That’s why they work really well in combination. Salads can have more complexity with the bitter, sweet, acidic, salty combination.”

Sims will often combine wild mushrooms, roasted winter squash, fennel or almost any root vegetable. But, he warns, limit it to two different vegetables so you can taste them clearly without confusing the palate.

Even kids can get in on the action, according to Wells. “Because root vegetables are sweet, kids love them cooked in the shape of French fries with barbecue sauce or ketchup for dipping.”

Vegetable Love by Barbara Kafka (Artisan, 2005) includes a fun recipe for Crisp Vegetables Chips that incorporates beets, white turnips, celery root, sweet potatoes and rutabaga. You’ll also find unconventional recipes for parsnip ice cream, kohlrabi stuffed with anchovies, and celery root soufflé.

“People need to explore instead of eating the same things day after day or resorting to produce shipped in from Mexico,” Wells concludes. “Be adventurous! Try picking up a whole variety of root vegetables and you’ll get some vitamins and minerals from the earth that are hard to get in the quick-growing vegetables.”

Before you know it, you too might be waxing poetic about the unexpected pleasures of root vegetables.

Yam and Parsnip Salad with Toasted Pecans and Cranberries

From David Wells

According to Wells, this salad contains many antioxidants, vitamin C, beta-carotene, and vitamin A. It’s high in soluble fiber plus a good source of selenium, zinc, and omega three fatty acids.

Step One

1 Tbsp whole grain mustard
2 Tbsp maple syrup
½ cup lemon juice
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp walnut oil
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp nutmeg
½ tsp sea salt

Step Two
2 shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 bunch parsley, chopped
1 bunch chive, chopped
2 Tbsp sage, chopped

Step Three
2 yams, peeled and diced, cooked until just tender.
4 parsnips, peeled and diced, cooked until just tender.
1 butternut squash, peeled and diced, cooked until just tender.
3 oz. pecans, toasted
4 oz dried cranberries

Whisk step one ingredients together in medium mixing bowl. Add step two ingredients and let stand for 30 minutes. In large mixing bowl combine all ingredients and mix well.
Cover platter with greens of choice. Place mixed salad in the middle. Serves 6

Spiced and Roasted Parsnips

From David Wells

This recipe also works with turnips, celery root, carrots or sweet potato.

1 1/2 pounds of parsnips, peeled and cut into 2 1/2 inch batons
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil.                                                                

4 Tbsp Organic Wholearth Spice blend (Italian, Latin, or Cajun-available at local markets).

salt and freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup low-sodium chicken stock or vegetable broth
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
½ Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ Tbsp minced chives.
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced.

2 Tbsp butter, optional

Pre-heat oven to 400°F. Toss the parsnips with the olive oil, spice blend, salt and pepper. (Use a sauté pan with sides no more than 2 1/2 inches high that can go into the oven). Heat pan and caramelize parsnips on medium heat until lightly golden.  Add the broth, cover with aluminum foil and roast, stirring once or twice, until the parsnips are tender and the stock has evaporated or been absorbed, 30-45 minutes. Check often to avoid their getting mushy, especially if they are to be reheated later. Combine the parsley, chives, garlic and butter if desired. Toss with the warm roasted parsnips and season with salt and pepper.

Mashed Celery Root, Potato and Fennel

From Kelly Sanchez of Kelly’s French Bakery

Sanchez often serves this delicious and simple side dish with roast chicken.  

1 celery root, cleaned and cut

3 fennel bulbs, cleaned and cut

5 medium red potatoes, cleaned and cut

butter to taste

salt and pepper to taste

In hot water cook the celery root, fennel and potatoes until very tender. Put through a food mill or ricer and add butter, salt and pepper to taste. Enjoy!